Can you make your own hydroponic nutrients?
Yes — but "make your own" means one of two very different jobs, and most people only need the easy one.
You can absolutely make your own hydroponic nutrients, and doing it yourself is how most serious growers cut cost. The catch is that "make your own" covers two routes that look nothing alike. One is mixing a three-part dry salt system — three products, a 2:2:1 ratio, done. The other is blending individual salts from scratch to a full recipe — six or more chemicals, weighed to the tenth of a gram. The first is what nearly everyone means. The second is real, but you probably don't need it.
The short answer
A plant doesn't care whether its nitrate came from a bottle or a bag of salt — it needs the same thirteen mineral elements in solution at the right ppm/EC for its crop and stage. "Making your own" just means supplying those elements from raw ingredients instead of a pre-diluted concentrate. The three-part dry mix does that with the least fuss; the from-scratch route does it with the most control and the lowest cost per gallon. Either way, the target you're aiming at is the same, and you confirm it the same way: measure the ppm/EC and match it to your crop's stage range.
Want a page to print? The recipe below is on our one-page hydroponic nutrient chart (PDF) — mixing ratio on one side, crop ppm targets on the other.
The practical route: a three-part mix
The most-used DIY recipe is the MasterBlend tomato formula — three dry parts in a 2:2:1 ratio by weight, mixed into water as separate parts so the calcium and sulfate don't precipitate out:
| Part | Per US gallon | Supplies |
|---|---|---|
| MasterBlend 4-18-38 | 2.4 g | N-P-K + micronutrients |
| Calcium nitrate 15.5-0-0 | 2.4 g | Calcium + nitrate nitrogen |
| Epsom salt (MgSO₄) | 1.2 g | Magnesium + sulfur |
Mix order matters: dissolve the MasterBlend fully first, then the Epsom salt, then the calcium nitrate last — never combine calcium nitrate and a sulfate in concentrated form or you'll get chalky calcium-sulfate sludge. That full-strength batch lands in the general vegetable range; dilute it for seedlings and leafy greens, run it full for fruiting tomato and pepper. The full per-gallon breakdown and the ppm it hits is on the MasterBlend ppm chart. Jack's 3-2-1 and other three-part dry lines follow the same logic with slightly different weights.
This is "making your own" for 95% of home growers: three products, one scale, no chemistry degree. You're buying the same salts a commercial blend uses, just undiluted.
The from-scratch route: individual salts
The purist version blends each element from its own salt, the way a research Hoagland solution is built. A complete from-scratch mix draws on:
| Salt | Supplies |
|---|---|
| Calcium nitrate | Calcium, nitrate nitrogen |
| Potassium nitrate | Potassium, nitrate nitrogen |
| Monopotassium phosphate (MKP) | Phosphorus, potassium |
| Magnesium sulfate (Epsom) | Magnesium, sulfur |
| Micronutrient blend + chelated iron | Fe, Mn, Zn, Cu, B, Mo |
This is genuinely cheaper per gallon at volume and lets you tune a single element — bumping potassium at flower, say — without touching the rest. But it asks for a gram scale, a published recipe, careful mix order, and usually two stock concentrates (an "A" tank with calcium, a "B" tank with phosphate and sulfate) kept apart so nothing precipitates. Unless you're running a large system or a specific research target, the three-part mix gets you the same result with a fraction of the handling.
Is it actually cheaper?
Usually, yes — that's the whole point. A jug of ready-to-dose liquid is mostly water you're paying to ship; raw salts are not. A three-part dry mix runs to cents per gallon once you buy the bags, and the from-scratch route is cheaper still at scale. The break-even depends on volume: for one small bucket now and then, a bottled formula's convenience can win; for anything ongoing, mixing your own pays for the scale in a few batches. Whichever route, the recurring cost is the salts — and a meter to prove the mix landed where your crop wants it.
FAQ
Can you make your own hydroponic nutrients?
Yes. The easy way is a three-part dry salt mix (MasterBlend 4-18-38 + calcium nitrate + Epsom, 2:2:1 by weight); the advanced way blends six or more individual salts from a recipe like a Hoagland solution. For most growers the three-part mix is "making your own."
Is it cheaper to make your own?
Per gallon, almost always — you're buying salts instead of pre-diluted liquid. The saving scales with volume; a single small system may not justify it over a bottle.
What salts do you need from scratch?
Calcium nitrate, potassium nitrate, monopotassium phosphate, magnesium sulfate (Epsom), plus a micronutrient blend and chelated iron. The three-part MasterBlend system packages most of that into three products.
Gear this guide uses
Making your own comes down to the parts, an accurate scale, and a meter to check the result.
- The three-part starter: a MasterBlend 4-18-38 + calcium nitrate + Epsom kit.
- From scratch instead: individual hydroponic salts (potassium nitrate, MKP, micros).
- Weigh parts to the tenth of a gram on a 0.1 g scale.
- Confirm the mix with an EC / ppm meter.
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Sources
The recipes are the manufacturers' and the research literature's; the crop targets they should meet come from university extension. Verify every batch with your own meter.